Trying To Make The Most Of It

If you're a reader of this blog, perhaps you wonder if we're getting any work done here. Rest assured, we are.

Today however, we accomplished little. It was not because we didn't try. I won't get into the details, but we set ourselves up this morning to cover something that could have been really interesting. Because of circumstances beyond our control, it fell through. Maybe tomorrow.

So while we awaited phone calls in the middle of the day, we did a little sightseeing.

Tom Lasseter, defender of the first amendment and conqueror of Central Asian antique stores. Better hide the women and children.

Hashim discovers he's a better translator than a warrior.

We dropped by the Kabul Zoo. It appears their captive breeding program is moving along nicely.

Drawing A Crowd

Anytime a white guy (or girl) loaded with camera equipment goes walking around in a third world country, it always seems to attract a crowd. Never fails. Even in this cemetery, of all places.

Of course now, due to the cell phone incident, I think they're all a bunch of pick-pocketing beggars. Seriously though, just a bunch of school kids who have probably never had their picture on the internet.

Now they have.

Fine Dining, Afghanistan Style

A driver that once worked for Tom took us to a restaurant on the banks of a river outside of Jalalabad. It was a beautiful night and a great dining experience.

On the menu was fried fish along with other Afghan staples. Obviously, the only thing missing was beer.

Little did I know, this was all taking place while the cell phone drama I described in the previous post was unfolding.

The best meal I've had on this trip so far.

Let That Be A Lesson To Me

Walking down a sidewalk in Jalalabad this evening. Someone pick-pocketed my cell phone right out of my vest pocket. Amazing really, how easily it happened and how unaware of it I was.

We tried to call it but the phone wasn't turned on. Maybe I just left in the hotel, we though.

Of course, an hour or so later, Teresa tried it and had no trouble making contact with the gentleman who possessed it. Obviously there was a little language barrier issue. Needless to say, Teresa began to ponder whatever might have happened to the cell phone's rightful owner. I won't say she feared the worst, but the thought crossed her mind.

We're currently negotiating with the cell phone kidnappers for its safe return. I'm not holding my breath.

The Road To Jalalabad

The road from Kabul to Jalalabad is under construction at the moment, so we had to take a little "detour."

It was the rockiest, dustiest, most winding mountain pass I've ever been on. We had to share it with caravans of sheep, camels and big trucks.

Tom checks out a local.

Here's a glimpse of the road, on the downhill side.

Here's what happens when you drive to fast. Not sure the fate of this car's occupants. But but by the looks of things, it probably didn't end well.

Who says journalists are bad guys? Tom hands a one-legged man in the middle of the road some money. Probably a land mine victim.

It was a drive that was made to be done in a hearty 4x4. We did it in a Toyota Coralla. What fun. I can't believe she held together. Of course... we still have to go back.

Going Native

We'll be headed out of Kabul on a few different occasions over the next week or so. Tom and our fixer, Hashim, took me shopping today for some local threads.

I totally dig on the hat. Ignore the dirty undies hanging up behind me.

The pants are another story altogether. You have to thread a rope through them and cinch 'em up tight. I could get three people in these babies. I guess it's one size fits all around here.

The Hindu Kush

Kabul is surrounded by the Hindu Kush Mountains. I think this range specifically (the one in the distance) is called the Suleiman Range.

Maybe it's just the surroundings, but these mountains just seem bigger and bolder than the Rockies.

I was able to go up to an observation deck on the roof of the hotel today. It was nice to get high above street level where the wind blew away all the stench from trash and exhaust fumes.

I don't know anything about this old historic fort in Kabul. I'll get on the case.

Kabul, Afghanistan

Well, it's definitely makes Detroit look good.

Kabul actually reminds me of some of the run -down parts of Beijing, except it's like the run-down parts of Beijing on every street corner.

Gotta be careful shooting these kinds of photos. Big no-no. At least that's what I'm told, and I'd like to get to know the locals a little better before I start blastin' away. For now, i'm just going to stick with the moving car, from the hip feature photos.

I'm not letting my guard down but I feel pretty safe here. We have good people working for us. If today was any indication, we'll rock and roll this joint and get out before the bell rings.

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

I've hardly been in Dubai long enough to make a picture and I won't be here much longer. The flight for Kabul leaves in about three hours.

I suspect the two places couldn't possibly be any more different. Visited the Mall of the Emirates tonight where you can step out of the desert and into this indoor ski resort. I'm not talking about a little bunny slope here, but a real chair lift taking skiers to the top of a fake mountain so they can ski down fake snow. There's enough money here to build anything and everything... and they're doing exactly that.

Troublemaker

This is Osama. He's two-years-old.


Troublemaker from Travis Heying on Vimeo.

While visiting the home of a man in Irbid today, he commented through our translator, that it seemed every boy he knew named Osama, including his son, was a troublemaker. He was concerned about his boy's behavior, given the fact the boy wouldn't stop playing with my gear.

Tom podered this and replied... "Well... Some more than others."

"But What About Second Breakfast?"

I promise I won't blog about the cuisine over here that often, but this spread was just too impressive.

Stopped at a restaurant in Jerash, Jordan today on the way back to Amman from the city of Irbid. Jerash is known for its historic Roman ruins, but this Lebanese meal made it popular with me.

Here's Tom walking out of the restaurant's unique doorway. Made me feel like Frodo Baggins.

Holy Land

Tom (the reporter I'm working with) and I had some downtime today so we headed out to the Jordan River. More specifically, the place where some archaeologists and biblical scholars believe Jesus was baptized.


The path of the river has changed due to 2000 years worth of erosion and irrigation. The remains of a 1500-year-old church were uncovered about a decade ago. At the bottom, a walkway down to a baptismal site.

Excavation around the site is ongoing. The river itself is about 100 yards from this spot.

Across the river from this Greek Orthodox church (a catholic church is under construction nearby) you can see the Israeli city of Jericho. One of the oldest cities in the world. It's also 1000 feet below sea level, making it the lowest city in the world.

The river is much more narrow than it once was. Couldn't resist dipping my feet in. That's Israel on the opposite bank. Freaky, huh?

A man prays to Mecca just 25 yards from a Greek Orthodox church and 100 yards from Israel. It truly is a place where culture and religon collide.

Amman, Jordan

In my humble opinion, one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

It feels good to be back here but it's hard to describe why. When I was here last (Nov. 03) I think it was sort of a way station that separated two things: My heart, which was still in Iraq, and my head, which was telling me to go home.

It's just like I remembered it. Even the smell of the air fills my head with memories.

Pulling An All-Nighter

I feel like I'm in college again. The only difference is, I won't be headed to a Village Inn when the sun comes up. Just the airport.

A driver (the Charles Bronson look-alike) is coming to get me in about 20 minutes to take me to the airport. It's almost 4 a.m. and my flight for Rome leaves at 5:30. If I miss that one... well, I don't even want to think of the problems I'd cause. Oversleeping is something I can't afford to do.

Altin took me out on the town tonight. Wish I had been able to do it sooner. He's a cool guy and a heck of an asset. Basically, if you're a reporter of photographer passing through Albania or Kosovo and this guy's not working for you, you don't know what you're doing. He's worked for some of the biggest names in journalism and is a top flight reporter himself.

So Albania was pretty brief but it was my first foray into eastern Europe. Very cool.

Next post comes from Amman, Jordan. Can't wait. Lots of sentimental feelings for that place.

The Beard

It was suggested to me before leaving on this assignment that I begin growing a beard. The reason: My safety would increase greatly if I did whatever I could to better blend in with the Afghan population.

It looks about like this so far... but not even this good.

I have basically a week to work on it before entering Afghanistan. Hopefully it fills in a little.

So let this be your fair warning to the fright that's coming.

Eating On the Economy

When I was in Iraq, I got very sick the first week from eating the local food. An RN at this Army based asked me, while ramming an IV into my arm, "Have you been eating on the economy?"

I had no idea what she was talking about. She said that's what they asked to find out if people have been eating locally-made foods.

I'm not sick, but the week's not over yet.

Here are a few more tidbits from Tirana.

These two guys are helping me out. That's Altin on the right, my fixer, and the guy on the left is our driver. I don't know his name.

Whenever I get out of the car to shoot a picture, they hurry and smoke as many cigarettes as they can as fast as they can. Awfully polite of them not to smoke in the car. It goes without saying.. eastern Europeans sure like their smokes.

Had a bad experience with my first meal here. Last night I ordered a steak from the hotel restaurant. I spit it out after taking one bite. Same with "Albanian Baked potatoes."

So I was skeptical headed into today. And obviously... I was incredibly hungry. But Altin came through for me.

Lots of Italian influence here and we went to place that took care of us. The above pic is the appetizer, a pizza dough-like bread slathered in olive oil and covered with tomatoes and feta cheese. yummy.

This is the main course. Tortellini covered with a cream sauce and ham shavings. mmm.

They make great cappuccinos here too.

Tirana, Albania

So an American, two Albanians and three Uighurs were sitting at this bar...

I wish it was the beginning of a bad joke, but it's the reality of my afternoon today.

I'm in Tirana, Albania right now, the first stop on the month-long assignment for McClatchy's Washington Bureau.

It's different than I expected. Lots of Soviet influence, obviously, but it's certainly changing. Construction everywhere, along with other western influences. The world truly is getting flat.

Everything has been super smooth so far, so knock on wood. I shot my first picture a couple of hours ago... only four hours after finishing a trans-Atlantic flight plus connection. Was able squeeze in a few hours of sleep. I actually feel pretty good. Getting ready to get a bite to eat and then head out to meet another contact.

The guy working for me is an Albanian who studied journalism at Harvard for awhile. His english is probably better than mine. His name is Altin Raxhimi. Good guy. Will try and get a snap of him in the next post.

On The Road... Again.

It seems the road never ends these days. Got home from San Antonio Tuesday night and on Sunday I'm leaving Wichita again. This time though I'll be gone a little longer and the road is a bit longer.

I'll head for D.C. on Sunday and on Monday night (if I can ever get Orbitz to cooperate) I'll be flying to Tirana, Albania. After a few days there, It's off to Jordan, United Arab Emirates and Afghanistan. The Afghan leg will last about three weeks and make up the majority of the trip.

As in the past (Iraq, Hurricane Katrina) this trip is being done for McClatchy's Washington Bureau. Though I've told some of you in person, I'm not going to lay out the nature of trip in this forum. I'll say this though... it involves no combat and should be relatively harmless. I should be gone a month.

I'll update this blog best I can, but it might be difficult.

What A Game! (Updated)

I've been witness to some pretty cool sporting moments in my time, but nothing topped last night. Walked out of the Alamodome at 1 a.m. with the conclusion that I just saw something pretty historic.

When Mario Chalmers hit this sweetheart with 3 seconds left to force overtime, you would have thought Jesus himself had just appeared. To KU fan, he probably did.

Here's today's sports section. The picture ain't all that, but it was the moment, I guess.

A pretty memorable night... even for a Husker.

The Riverwalk

It's everything I heard it would be. The Riverwalk in San Antonio. Looks peaceful and inviting. But when you take tens of thousands of college basketball fans, mix in some alcohol, it gives new meaning to "March Madness"

Romantic looking, eh?

This Memphis fan was blaring some music as she walked around. Good thing everyone here is in good spirits. It wasn't as annoying as all the KU fans walking around yelling "Rooooockkkkk Chaaaallllkkkkk Jayyyyhawwwwk." That's annoying.

Good to see KU winning this final four battle. Aided by the fact that UNC and UCLA fans have thinned out. I'll have you know that's the Eagle's JMart voting for UCLA. Shame, Shame. Actually, after seeing their dance squard, I don't blame him.

I could dedicate a whole entry about what took place at Dick's Last Resort. Probably best I don't. Don't know this guy.

Dont' know this guy either, but the bouncer on the right told him he couldn't leave with his beer. I said "Chug it dude!"

Bottoms up.

Rock Chalk

Well... I sure know how to pick 'em, eh? KU rolled into the National Championship game with a convincing win over North Carolina. Now I'm stuck in a Texas a few more days. At least it's not Detroit.

McClatchy is cleaning house at the final four. Four different McClatchy papers, along with staff members from the Washington bureau, are on hand. From left: Jeff Tuttle, Wichita Eagle; George Bridges, McClatchy/Tribune photo editor and technical wizard; Linda Epstein, MCT Photo Boss and the fine lady who gives me the best photo assignments; Me, looking like an ass and Shane Keyers of the Kansas City Star, who's been on the road so long his wife has probably sold off all his belongings.

Shot the first half from the upper photo deck. Not very fun. But at least the view is good.

Who can say their governor is this much fun? Kathleen Sebelius, the governor of Kansas and a devoted Jayhawk fan, didn't change her cheering habits for one second when a photographer showed up in front of her. Trust me... you don't see that everyday.

The sister and mother of KU forward Darnell Jackson are overwhelmed as the Jayhawks start to pull away.

I'd be letting you Jayhawkers down if I changed my tune at this point. Monday night's showdown at the Alamo: Memphis 72, Kansas 69.

Another Week, Another City

Well.. thanks to Davidson College's inability to run a play on the basketball court with 16 seconds left, I'm headed to San Antonio this week while the lucky Jayhawks play in the Final Four.

I know what you're thinking... my last blog post said I was "dreaming of San Antonio." Well... that's just because I was in Detroit and by the end of the week Kalamazoo was starting to sound pretty good, too.

Mostly though, i'm just a little road weary. It's a different city every week and pretty soon, it's going to be different country every week. More on that later when I shore up the details.

Anyway... This pic of San Antonio's Riverwalk looks a tad bit nicer than the rust of Detroit. I hear the Mexican Food is nice... and I like beer... so it's already got that going for it. Well, I guess you can get beer anywhere, huh?

Last but not least... my Final Four prediction: North Carolina 83, Kansas 68. I'll be on the road home Sunday morning.